OMG OMG R31-16m FRONT MOTOR CHASSIS!!!!!

[tamiya]

Arrrrgggghhhhhh! I need the things that go inside of the diffs! Damn build on hold till R2HOBBIES send them out. God I just paid 20 bucks shipping for a 8.00 part!? WTF!?

haha join the club R2 was cheaper than paying $50 for the realdeal Streetjam item from JP

[Dr.Fate]

Arrrrgggghhhhhh! I need the things that go inside of the diffs! Damn build on hold till R2HOBBIES send them out. God I just paid 20 bucks shipping for a 8.00 part!? WTF!?

haha join the club R2 was cheaper than paying $50 for the realdeal Streetjam item from JP

That's real talk right there!

[tamiya]

i'll sleep ok with those being clone bits... as they aren't moving parts...

i've used Genuine StreetJam steel pivot for the steering rack though... that's near a moving part

[Dr.Fate]

My cs ratio is 2.20. 40/16 Front 22/18 center 23/32 rear. I want to go to 2.62 40/16 Front 23/18 center 24/32 rear! Soon...

[tamiya]

dammit, mine is suffering serious tweak issues 8(

tried fitting top plate and holes are ~2mm too long... put straightedge against chassis plate and its banana'd up

forced on the top plate & bolted up... now the chassis plate is banana'd in the other direction... grrr


can't see what could be causing it, there's negligible tension in the long belt

[Dr.Fate]

Well I had no problems so far with the chassis. What banana? is the chassis bending? I did notice that I had to plat with the tensors to get the belt "right" but that's it. I noticed when I did put the long belt on it felt a lil short so I made sure not to kill the belt or force the chassis with anything. I like so far and have not even ran it! Still got to put the electronics in and set the camber and front toe. Um for the guys who are having problems with the shock hitting the wheel when at full lock, just get rid of the hubs from SJ and use some reg ol' 2-3mm wheel hubs and I have about 2mm of space at full lock. Also with the rear wing and long front bumper, you will have a bad time fitting bodies. I had to take off the rear wing, adjust the spacers and I think i might have to cut the bumper just to fit a intercooler or a fan but not much maybe a 1-2 mm. I'll post pictures later today. Has anyone figured out a way to use the stealth mounts?

[AzNPuLSe]

Has anyone figured out a way to use the stealth mounts?

This does the job for me. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/217to52bhfnddu7/3UsqX1DsXu

[tamiya]

ok crawled outta bed, took another look... yep, it ain't my eyesight @ 4am,
damned thing is as bent as a bipartisan politician on the graft...

Laid it on a flat surface, the middle is raised as much as the CF as thick


Apart from top deck, looks like there's some tension caused by rear bulkhead vs firewall
vs the little bridge supplied in the R31-16M kit which looks a little too long
for the distance between their mount holes on the chassis.
Firewall looks a tad slanted forwards.

There's some serious errors in the instructions too + got 2 defective screws in the set GRRR


ER is getting slack

[Dr.Fate]

Yeah after making mistake after mistake going by the manual, I just went at myself! Turned out really good IMO.. I know that eagle has a history of coming out with chassis after chassis just to cover the mistake made on the first version, ETC the TA05... Now the only issues I have is you can't slide the battery in and out, But that can be fixed by a new battery holder. The long belt seems a lil too short IMO so I had to play with that a lil' bit. Know that I have run my rig YET. Trying to find out if my speed passion 10.5 will work with my KO PROPO ESC. Then I will find out whats up...

[Dr.Fate]

Has anyone figured out a way to use the stealth mounts?

This does the job for me. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/217to52bhfnddu7/3UsqX1DsXu

Nice, Good job Brother! Now what are your impressions of rig? Have run it yet?

[tamiya]

...making mistake after mistake...

GRRRR DAMNED EAGLE IS KILLING ME

spent all sunday pulling it half apart then some slow meticulous filing to slot the holes
causing the tweak problem; well its finally sitting flat now YAY

so i thought i'd celebrate by busting out that nice shiny set of new Eagle R31 alloy shocks
... got them filled up, coupla hours under vacuum evicting all air bubbles, then clip them on

WTF why is droop more on 1 corner

oh christ... this bloody shocker set had 1 that's LONGER than the others

1 shaft is 2-3mm longer... not noticeable by blindfreddy,
not something i'd thought to check before all that work filling

[AzNPuLSe]

Nice, Good job Brother! Now what are your impressions of rig? Have run it yet?

Thanks Dr. At first I just directly transferred over my R31 parts from my Fire Dance chassis to my FM R31. I figured I would tackle each issue as they come. As expected the car did not perform but I did feel a presents of the FM motor trying to stabilize the the drifts. I've never driven a FM chassis before by the way.

The next day, I completely checked my settings CS FDR, camber, caster, shock position and spring preload. Now it drives like a dream! I can literally go hunting down cars on the track and keep up to their door while holding CS. Transitioning from large sweepers to small S-Turns is a lot easier than my Eagle Ta05 GRT Ver 2 and previous R31 Fire Dance. The FM chassis likes to slide sideways for a good ~1.5 ft when hitting the brake just before entering a turn. I never really needed to his the break on my other chassis before. Do keep in mind, I'm still using CS gears out of the box. I calculated it to be around 56% with 7.5 CS FDR at the end of all this.

I'll be posting in Full CS setup thread. Be easy on me guys. =)

[FunkRenegade]

Laid it on a flat surface, the middle is raised as much as the CF as thick

[tamiya]

1 shaft is 2-3mm longer... not noticeable by blindfreddy,
not something i'd thought to check before all that work filling

yep 1 shaft was longer by 3mm

Not sure if 1 got 3 shorter or 1 longer in error... the short ones are a bit too short for the R31
Even at full extension the dogbones were sitting higher than horizontal to the ground
So ideally they should all be longer, or replace the bottom eyelet with a longer item.


had some TA05 Eagle "HMS" shocks stuffed away ('COS THEY POPPED TOP SEAL & LEAKED BAD!!)
which i raided for their shafts... which turned out to be same length as the longer odd shaft
so i changed the shorter 3 instead. The "HMS" had taller bottom eyelet but reused short eyelet.
Triple checked with calipers that they're all equal.



R31 dogbones are bit too short too, nearly falling out of the cups. No i don't run crazy camber.

[AzNPuLSe]

yep 1 shaft was longer by 3mm

Not sure if 1 got 3 shorter or 1 longer in error... the short ones are a bit too short for the R31
Even at full extension the dogbones were sitting higher than horizontal to the ground
So ideally they should all be longer, or replace the bottom eyelet with a longer item.


had some TA05 Eagle "HMS" shocks stuffed away ('COS THEY POPPED TOP SEAL & LEAKED BAD!!)
which i raided for their shafts... which turned out to be same length as the longer odd shaft
so i changed the shorter 3 instead. The "HMS" had taller bottom eyelet but reused short eyelet.
Triple checked with calipers that they're all equal.



R31 dogbones are bit too short too, nearly falling out of the cups. No i don't run crazy camber.

seems like you can throw on a rubber ring on the shaft before dropping it in. That should even them out. Those HMS are nothing but trouble. My friend tried to get those to work and they kept popping. The replacement seals don't do that though and they actually fit good. Also, if you throw on a TRF rebuild kit on it, it'll run smoother as well. I'm not sure what it is but the O-rings that come with the TRF are alot more like jelly when oiled up.

R31 CV's are a bit short but they still stay in. As you can see I only run about 1-3* camber.

[Dr.Fate]

I'm not gonna front, this front motor chassis it all good IMO! I just ran it with no settings or me adjust cambers or anything, I just ran it. It was smooth thru the turns and transitions were more polished. I can't wait to run this thing with the proper settings! I have to wait to get a long sensor cord?!?! I had to rig my chassis up with a mint box to set the esc on just to reach the sensor cable!?! I waiting on a email to confirm that a few parts I want are in.. Now I can't wait for the R31 Long chassis! Anyone know when that comes out? Oh I noticed that you CAN use the conversion on your R31 rig as is! I'm trying to figure out a way for the belt to run.

[tamiya]

yeah for the original OTAs i buy the ARD 51mm CVDs not the R31's 48.5mm

TRF o-rings are pure silicone. If you get any mineral oil on them, or even solvents
they will expand and go spongey... gotta use 100% silicone oil with these.


with the HMS after a lot of R&D i've gotten them to stay sealed... their main problem
is their top cap plastic insert causes too much leverage on the rubber seal
& they don't have a ring lip to stop the seal collapsing into the barrel.
I take a Tamiya plastic top and trim the circumference to fit inside the Eagle cap;
T's top has required ring lip and the Eagle green seal stays put. Don't overtighten.

The Eagle o-rings don't leak nor drag too much so i've left them in there so far.
I stopped using the HMSes mainly 'cos they aren't threaded body




yay R2 package arrives ...via Singapore?! my gold nightmare can be rollin'

[vimal]

Have any of you tried these?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... Blue_.html

I have a set on the way to try them out...

[tamiya]

Have any of you tried these?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... Blue_.html

I have a set on the way to try them out...

they look suspiciously like the old 1st version YeahRacing or one of those
generic brands that has crossed my workbench before... pretty horrid
They had very coarse threads so the caps loosened themselves easily;
was impossible to get them filled so that they gave equal rebound.
Total waste of time fiddling about.


If you hafta go cheap, do it only on the bits that don't move &/or don't need precision machining.
Shocks are a very important part of car's tuning/handling, so if they don't perform
you'll be forever chasing your own tail trying to get your chassis dialled.

[vimal]

I have also had experience with the Yeah racing damper sets... but these seem to have had good reviews and I thought I should try them out to see if they would work...

But on the other hand I will never compromise when it comes to suspension... I currently have TRFs on my TA05

[Dr.Fate]

okay guys I just had the R31 rear arms modified so I can use any body I want! I will post pictures soon..

[tamiya]

I have also had experience with the Yeah racing damper sets... but these seem to have had good reviews and I thought I should try them out to see if they would work...

hobbyking seems to have more fanbois than Apple Inc

and they don't seem shy about writing glowing reviews even BEFORE their purchase has arrived in the mail

I currently have TRFs on my TA05

yeah TRFs are still the ultimate, lots of ppl have tried copying but the TRFs are still the best

unless you can find some "Tech Racing" branded ones, then they're just as fantastic

[vimal]

"hobbyking seems to have more fanbois than Apple Inc " very true...

I've found the TOP Photon dampers to be really good also

[tamiya]

but they still ain't TRFs...

whereas the Tech Racing ones *are*... except they can come in more colours than just blue

[artica]