Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

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omni86
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Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby omni86 » Thu May 23, 2013 12:55 pm

I've started into 1:10 drifting from 1:1 grip/slide. I realize that full rwd rc isn't a stable entry level deal.
Approaching this hobby with 1:1 experience and finding CS to have more realism involved, I'm well over 50/50.
Looking into a budget build I've narrowed down my options and just want to run somethings by experienced CS drivers.

From the perspective of wanting a well balanced chassis i.e. mototr/battery placement.
I looked into the teh-r31 Initial D spec chassis due to its center mounted battery and forward motor design.
Read enough reviews to consider other options.
Which has lead me to consider a Chassis ground up build.
If I can build a 1:1 car a 1:10 is feasable I just need to educate myself and compare what 1:1 realism crosses into 1:10.
While physics is still physics scale application is relatively new to me.
I do not want:
Hpi sprint2
Exceed
Redcat or other rtr junk.
I'm interested in a full CS build and have primarily been looking into:
Mst pro
Drift Devil
Sakura D3
Teh-r31...of the 4 seems to have least favored reviews but many hopups at a decent price.
Reccomendations?..........

I'm not looking to start debates over which budget chassis is pro status. Or have anyone "tell" me what to buy.
I'd like to know what will work efficiently with a few hopups cvd's shocks etc to begin with.
Or should I consider a carbon fiber chassis and take my time to build it up.

Mst pro, people mention that the suspension isn't fully adjustable which is holding me back.
Drift devil looks like a decent starter, common minor stock issues.
SakuraD3 gets a lot of positive reviews as well as negative comments similar to the DD.
Teh-r31 I've about given up on its just a straightforward platform and interchangeable cheap parts.
Carbon fiber chassis but then I'm into sourcing out f/r sus components gears etc with no prior experience, which is ok I would just be sourcing my info off research and somewhat reliant on others xp to complete it.

Theres a large crawler/baja rc crowd around my location. Yup, country. Not much for driftng especially Counter Dori.
My 1:1 crowd invest enough into there cars as is, eventualy may get some followers once I get rolling. The LHS pulls out a carpet track now n then but I was told it's mainly HPIsprint2's and when I asked about 50/50 vs CS.... ,-| :wtf: :yawn:
So not a lot of local support.

Read...and re-read a lot about CS, started to understand then got into CS ratios pulley/gear sizes and back to :wtf: abit.
Mainly just looking for advice on what to research or some major Negatives about ones I have in mind. As budgeting I'm not expecting any Serious pros just decency, something to work with thats intended for full CS.

Thanks for any input/advice.

Gaelen
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby Gaelen » Thu May 23, 2013 4:30 pm

My general rule of thumb is get a car you can get parts for easily. I went with w sprint 2 personally because my local hobby shop stocks almost every part id ever need for it.

likely you're going to modify it anyway so where you start isn't as much of an issue as what you can get aftermarket support for IMO.

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Stalwart
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby Stalwart » Thu May 23, 2013 4:44 pm

If you're coming with sports attitude, not just bashing around - choose a kit from respectable brand. Consider Yokomo DIB-RS.

omni86
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby omni86 » Thu May 23, 2013 6:01 pm

Budgetwise I'm considering the sakuraD3 and Drift Devil. That dib-rs I know is a favored direction for quality.

I'm a long time 1:1 grip/slide enthusiast, owner of two ae86's which I put a lot/everything into keeping a hobby one around.
I may be obsessed w 1:10 and trying to edge into it lol. I tend to get really involved and have serious plans for rc in likeness.
I plan to invest in a more expensive setup after this build.
Part of this for me is getting some hands on experience and knowledge before I invest in what could be a 500+ setup.
It amazes me how much it adds up to for a nice chassis with upgraded hopup kits. Im buying a 1:1 ae86 gts for 1.5k
Not too far off from some rtr competition setups. The crawlers I've seen or 1/16 bajas...jeeeez. I'd rather be drifting lol.
In 1:1 or 1:10 imo ;)

D3 has lots of available what seem to be inexpensive hopups. I'm all about the metal upgrades.
A fully upgraded D3 still appears to my noob self as a bargain compared to a base model dib-rs. MmmmDib-rs.
LHS don't have much drift anything but can order most things, there cool people just mainly into baja/buggy dirt racing.
Small shop w a dirt track open part time, it's really the back room of a dirt bike/atv shop. So plan for online buys mostly.
Or special orders.

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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby Stalwart » Fri May 24, 2013 12:29 am

Hopups are overrated, most of them just add shelf queen bling, and can't fix chassis that were underengineered in the first place. I'm just saying.

omni86
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby omni86 » Fri May 24, 2013 1:23 pm

Yeah I totaly appreciate the input man thank you. I'm trying to take my time with this and may hold off until I can properly invest. As far as Quality for a budget buy, the MST Pro seems like the next step up. It gets a fair amount of reccomendations, I'm abit hesitant to drop 3-500 on a chassis for my first go. The hopups made of aluminum vs plastic just makes me think durable and response increase. I'm not experienced and full of anxiety to get CS'ing, I'm sure it's the fever.

Anything like 1:1 for my ae86 daily driver I buy only OEM or Dealer parts for the extra buck. I won't put sub spec anything on or in my cars, Castrol gtx oil/All metal filter not even cheap spark plugs, and buy bottled distilled(Non Mineral water) for my radiator. I imagine 1:10 goers are the same way about being a rc enthusiast. Anything sub standard is built to that spec, simple.
Daily Driver gts coupe
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Rally Setup sr5 hatch :) Can't drift a open diff 4ac my a**, its called momentum.. :)
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby Stalwart » Sat May 25, 2013 2:19 am

omni86 wrote:The hopups made of aluminum vs plastic just makes me think durable and response increase.


Plastic parts are cheaper, lighter and more durable overall, but need to be very precisely shimmed to have no play. Aluminum parts are more rigid, dissipate heat and can be very precisely machined, but bend irreversibly on crash.

All materials have their strengths and weaknesses, don't think of plastic tub chassis as inferior to carbon fiber ones. StreetJam OTA-R31, Yokomo Type-C and DIB-RS are one of the most capable kits available on the market, and all three have great upgrade paths with conversion kits and individual parts from both their original manufacturers and tuning factories.

omni86
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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby omni86 » Fri May 31, 2013 12:02 am

So as far as aluminum parts. I was thinking of what parts may be beneficial in there cast alum/plastic.
I had wondered about it being better for some parts to be plastic for its give. I do plan to run in parking lots/asphalt.

Heres my thinking.
Alumunim parts for rigidity.
steering rack
servo link/horn
Hubs
Gear box
Sus arm brace/ackerman joint

Unsure about the two on.
Shock towers. Maybe alum in the rear as I would want it more rigid/less flex?.
It seems like this point may be good as plastic. A stress relief point for one, also plastic absorbs vibration better.
Hub arms. I want my steering to be responsive, certain links and what not. Are arms fine in plastic?
Motor mounts? Plastic seems fine or does aluminum have physical benefiets?

Mainly concerned with steering response I'm fine with plastic parts. Thanks for the input.

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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby Stalwart » Fri May 31, 2013 10:18 am

Unless you buy chassis of questionable engineering, don't be concerned about rigidity. Plastic parts that need to be rigid, are usually oversized and bulky. Just compare full-option DIB and plastic DIB-RS to get the idea - tricky tub chassis with high sidewalls, sophisticated upper deck, shock towers are 5x more thick compared to carbon-fiber counterparts. Also, check out OTA-R31ML vs. OTA-R31 - the long wheelbase one has honeycomb pattern on chassis for more rigidity. Plastic steering arms are just fine if they pivot on bearings. For good handling response quality aluminum shocks are good investment. Aluminum motor mount with help dissipate heat from motor, for DIB it's available separately as an upgrade part.

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Re: Build input/advice, chassis narrowed down. Not a hands holdr

Postby chiefy707 » Sat Jun 01, 2013 10:26 pm

MST suspensions not having enough adjustments? What is it missing then? Even caster is adjustable without the need for extra parts. The unique suspension design on the MST cars are one of the best things about them and part of the reason why they also have the best stock steering angle of any car. MST's are designed first and foremost as drift cars and not just another converted TC, using TC suspensions and TC drivetrains. All MST chassis run sweet from the $200 MS-01D S to a $700 XXX-D bling king.
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